Herd of Turtles

 

Tuesday, May 31st 2011
Day 8: Crosby on Eden to Boustead Hill (10 miles)

Breakfast in the morning was fine, some cereal to choose from and the full English breakfast was cooked to order. We packed our bags up and headed downstairs to pay our bill. The gentleman at the desk presented us with a bill for our stay, plus and extra bill of £45 for the room we had cancelled. He explained they had a 7-day cancellation policy and being a small business, they couldn’t absorb the cost. While I was rather expecting this, it would have been nice for this to have been made clear when we cancelled the room. We paid as we didn’t feel it was worth making a fuss and moved off into another grey morning.

We retraced our steps back to the path and continued on to Linstock. Much like Crosby, it is a satellite village of Carlisle. There is not really much to see. We crossed the M6 and were walking along the road when we caught up with another walker, a single, older lady. We said a quick hello and spent the better part of the morning passing or being passed by her on the journey into Carlisle.

We joined the cycle lane leading into Rickerby and admired the folly in the field. Both the folly and the field looked strangely out of place positioned next to the obvious edge of the city.

Folly in the field

Entering Rickerby Park we had to try not to be run over by all the caravans and amusement rides that were exiting the park. There had been a fair over the long weekend, and we got to squelch through the turned-up mud left behind until we crossed the bridge over the River Eden.

We found the Sands Sport Centre and went inside to use the facilities and stamp our passports.

Art sculpture outside Sands Sports Centre showing all the forts along Hadrian’s Wall

Rather than grab a bite to eat here, we decided to make a trip into central Carlisle, as we were all in desperate need of an ATM. We also wanted to get some food for a picnic dinner. We were tired of eating out, and we knew our B&B tonight was some way away from a pub. So, instead of passing under the bridge to continue on the path, we went left and headed into the city. The best way to get into the main shopping area of Carlisle from here is to use the subway and follow the signs; don’t try and cross the busy main roads above! It is only a 10 or 15 minute walk from the path, but it’s not really a pleasant diversion – mostly main roads and roundabouts, and a pretty standard High Street. We did find a cash point and an M&S food shop without much difficulty, and set about stocking up for the evening. We even got a bottle of red wine that Jacquie kindly offered to carry for the rest of today’s walk. We then headed to the M&S restaurant for a spot of tea and scones with clotted cream and jam for lunch. We must have spent a good hour and a half or two hours in Carlisle by the time we figured we should move on.

The path continues west, skirting Carlisle, sticking to the Eden. First it follows along a paved path through a city park, then after the sports centre it becomes a bit less tame, but still a great stroll. It all makes for much better city walking than the Newcastle portion!

Walking next to the Eden heading out of Carlisle

Just as you leave Carlisle behind, you come to where they are building a new road bridge across the Eden. It’s a bit of a strange sight in the middle of a field. The path had been incorporated into the worksite, so crossing safely was not an issue.

The path along the riverside sometimes has you walking along the field edges, sometimes closer to the water’s edge. To do this you are always climbing up and down steps. At least it adds a bit more variety to what otherwise would be field after field.

We passed through Grinsdale and were keeping our eyes out for a nice spot to rest for a bit. We made it as far as Sourmilk footbridge and just sat on the field wall there and refreshed ourselves with strawberries and sweets. The sun came out to join us for a few minutes, and listening to the stream gurgling away behind us it felt like an immensely peaceful spot.

Continuing along the path there were quite a few places where the recent rain had turned the path quite muddy and slippery but we kept on and emerged out of the trees, riverbanks and fields into Beaumont.

Muddy track

We quickly passed by the small cluster of houses and left them and the river behind. It wasn’t long before we emerged at the road near the start of Burgh-By-Sands (pronounced Bruff-B-Sands) village. There is a very attractive parish church just on the left. We entered the churchyard and let ourselves into the church to explore. The church is built of stones from the Wall and there is even a carving of a pagan god incorporated into the wall behind the altar. The external doorframe has some wonderful 13th century stone carving in a block pattern. Also, the tower of the church was built to provide protection for local residents during uncertain times as it has no outside entrance.

Pagan carving in a stone used in the wall of Burgh-By-Sands church

Carving around the entrance to the church

Burgh-By-Sands church, notice the tower has no entrance

We continued walking through the village and stopped at the Greyhound Inn for some refreshments. We had plenty of time and only another mile or a bit more to go, so we took advantage of the decks of cards on hand and played some games while we relaxed. Outside the pub is a statue of Edward I, known as the ‘Hammer of the Scots’, who died out on the Solway marshes from illness not far from here, waiting to cross the firth and invade Scotland. He lay in state at the Burgh-By-Sands church we visited earlier.

Statue of Edward I outside the Greyhound Inn

We continued walking on the pavement and on the road until we reached Dykesfield, where we were greeted with warnings as this incredibly flat area is prone to flooding when the tides are extra high. It’s best to check to make sure your walk will not be affected by this before you set out, however, there are tide tables available on the path.

Walking along the road on the Solway marshes

To give our feet a break and to not obstruct traffic on the road we tended to walk on the embankment to the south of the road, which offers the land behind protection from the floodwaters. At the first left, we turned and walked up to Boustead Hill, a small settlement clustered on the only high ground in the area. This was our stop for the night, and we were staying at the lovely Highfield, an 18th century farmhouse. We were warmly welcomed by Julie, who showed us in, brought us teas and cakes and was happy to answer our questions about her family home and livery yard business. We had a twin and a double room both ensuite and the double room had a Jacuzzi tub! At only £30 each this was the best value stay of the trip. Julie also cheerfully supplied us with plates and wine glasses for our picnic dinner that we had bought in Carlisle and set us up in the breakfast room in much more style than we had anticipated. Dinner went down easily as we watched the setting sun paint the sky orange, red and purple. As dusk finally settled over the Solway Firth we could see the twinkling lights of Scotland across the water.

Sunset over the Solway

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