West Highland Way 2010
May 26th 2010 - Day 2: Drymen to Rowardennan (15 miles)
Breakfast was a lively affair. We were sharing the table with the landlady’s relation who was also walking the WHW, but in 4 days, and after this stop he would be wild camping. After much encouragement from her, he showed off his fancy walking poles... I’m not sure we mustered up as much enthusiasm as was expected of us. We were much more interested in her home-made jam! With all the talk, and a trip to the SPAR supermarket, we didn’t set off until after 10am.
Once again we waved goodbye to civilisation, quickly passing along the main road and then started to climb. The first part of the morning’s walk was through the Queen Elizabeth Forest Park and the path leading to it allowed me to use my sense of smell that I’m sure has been dulled by life in London. The sweet scent of gorse and the earthy scent of pine made me smile as we turned to look back at the last views of the Campsie Fells. The forest was a pleasant morning ramble, Susan stopped to point out and name many of the flowers that grew on the verge. The shade it provided was welcome, as the weather was again offering a beautiful, warm, sunny day.
Emerging from the trees onto moorland, Loch Lomond opened up before us along with the daunting sight of Conic Hill, part of the highland boundary fault, that we would have to climb and descend before lunch. Even from a distance we could see tiny dots snaking their way up on the path that then swung around to the northern face.
Conic hill and Loch Lomond
Conic hill was even more difficult than it looked. The hill was steep and the path had been eroded both by water streaming down and feet climbing up. It felt endless at times, and stopping to enjoy the views back over the moorland below made me feel small, especially with the echoing sound of lambs calling ringing in your ears. But the sight as the path crests the ridge makes it all worth it. The islands of the loch line up along the highland boundary fault and the attractive boats bob in Balmaha below. Susan and I took a well-deserved break while Jacquie opted to scramble to the summit.
View of Loch Lomond from path on Conic hill
The descent of Conic Hill is also difficult, very steep and eroded with stairs in many places. Walking poles were a great asset here. The path leads down into woods dappled in sunlight at the base of the hill and before you know it, you emerge in Balmaha at the Public Car Park. We stopped for the loos at the visitor centre. While the pub looked tempting, the weather was fine again and we opted for a picnic, stopping at the top of Craigie Fort. It was a popular spot, and even came with its own ‘man in a kilt’ who was leading what looked like a day tour.
The next section of the walk took us to the inviting beaches on the bonnie, bonnie banks of Loch Lomond. At one point I saw someone sitting propped against a rock, with his feet stretched out on the pebbly beach, reading a book and soaking up the sunshine in a perfect spot. His tent wasn’t far away. I think he had the right idea - this is a section to linger over and be savoured.
Beaches of Loch Lomond
Sometimes the path went inland and we walked through endless bluebell woods flirting with views of the Loch. The path was constantly up and down as we climbed many hills along the loch side. We always came back to the water’s edge though. For all our efforts, we were rewarded with sights of Ben Lomond in the distance.
Ben Lomond
The last climb of the day was exhausting. At the top, there were messages of encouragement from walkers who had survived the ordeal earlier, but with two miles still to go, it was difficult to enjoy the last of the walk to Rowardennan. It was with relief that we exited the trees onto the road. We stopped to check what time the Clansman Bar at the Rowardennan Hotel stopped serving food before continuing on to the youth hostel, as it was now past 7pm. We continued on to the Rowardennan Lodge Hostel which is housed in a beautiful old building on the shores of the loch at the foot of Ben Lomond. This is also the point where the road on this side of the loch ends. After the day’s walk my feet needed some TLC. I had managed to get blisters on my ankles and under my toenails on my second toe on both feet. Thankfully I had the foresight to pack lots of Compeed!
Rowardennan in the evening sun
Wine and food at the Clansman bar replenished our spirits after an extremely long and hard day’s walk. The sun was still up as we made our way back to the hostel where we were lucky enough to have a six-bunk room to ourselves. Everything was clean, but I struggled to get the hot water to work in the shower. After paying for a cooked breakfast and the non-members fee, the hostel really wasn’t that much cheaper than a B&B.