West Highland Way 2010
May 29th 2010 - Day 5: Tyndrum to Bridge of Orchy (6 miles)
It was a slow start to the day. We were meeting friends of Jacquie who were joining the walk as far as Kingshouse at around 10am at Lower Tyndrum Station. We wandered into town to the cafe and got some breakfast, then posted our postcards, went to the cashpoint, and I stocked up on Compeed, before heading back up to the train station to pick up the new arrivals, Emma, Louisa and Wendy.
Many people walk all the way to Kingshouse on this day,
but being first-timers (18 miles was intimidating) we had
scheduled a stop after only 6 miles at Bridge of Orchy. This
means that our late start at around 11am wasn’t a problem at
all. The day was grey again and it showered off and on.
When you make that right turn, crossing the main road and
start to leave Tyndrum through the narrow pass, you can
really feel the immediacy of the Highlands. Even on a grey
day it took awhile for the majesty to disappear into the
mist. It wasn’t long before we gained our space from the
train line and the road and were back on an old military
road, following the curves of the hills that were watching
over us.
Misty views
Beinn Odhar and later Beinn Dorain were constant companions on the walk today leaving me feeling truly tiny in an immense and wild world. We tramped through sheep fields and then passed under the railway by means of a dark, dripping passageway to emerge along a gorse-lined road. We were all anticipating the horseshoe viaduct, which did not disappoint – it is such an elegant solution! The curve of the viaduct fits the rail line so sensitively into the landscape; from this distance it seems to be naturally part of the mountains.
Beinn Odhar and the horse-shoe viaduct
Beinn Dorain
Stopping at the bridge over the River Allt Kinglas to munch on some lunch, we admired the highland cattle in the field. We then stared open mouthed at the runner (not the first we had seen on the trail, possibly training for the West Highland Way Race, where they compete all 95 miles of the trail in a max of 35 hours) who quickly passed us by.
Refuelled, we ploughed on through the misty rain through more sheep pasture and before we knew it, Bridge of Orchy was in sight. Six miles goes by very quickly when you have accustomed yourself to 12 to 15 miles a day. We were staying at The West Highland Way Sleeper hostel which is located on the platform of the railway station but as it was only 2pm it was far too early to check in. So we wandered down to the Bridge of Orchy Hotel and indulged in a cream tea. The scones were served warm, so warm that they melted the clotted cream if you didn’t put the jam on first. We still had plenty of time before check in, so the others opted for a riverside walk while I put my feet up and read in the hotel lounge.
The hostel that night was a great experience. The owner is very clearly a train enthusiast, having spent many years working with British Rail he’d tell you all you ever wanted to know about trains! The rooms had triple bunks... beware those without a head for heights. When we booked we were offered dinner there at a very reasonable £13 for a 3 course meal, and he even brought in wine at cost for us. While we were eating dinner around a big communal table with 2 other girls who were walking the trail solo, The Royal Scotsman luxury train pulled into the station and was going to be staying at Bridge of Orchy Station overnight. Despite seeing the finery that the train guests were enjoying, I was confident we were having the superior experience – enjoying the warm buzz of the wine, good home-cooked food and friendly company.
Bridge of Orchy station
Communal dinner at the hostel