West Highland Way 2010
May 30th 2010 - Day 6: Bridge of Orchy to Kingshouse (12 miles)
After the choice of a hearty continental or cooked breakfast we were off once again. The morning had dawned grey again, but the mountains that had been lost to last night’s mist were again visible. We crossed the bridge of Orchy before starting the climb out of the valley.
View from the Bridge of Orchy
I loved turning around as we walked and looking back down on the village, watching it become smaller and smaller.
Looking back at Bridge of Orchy
To keep my mind on where I was walking, I admired the fords built into the path to keep the streams from washing the path away. It’s very traditional technology but seems very effective. At the top of Mam Carraigh we revelled in the views to be had from all sides – plenty of peaks and the lake below. The wind was blowing, whipping my hair across my face, but it was defiantly one of those “I must remember this” moments.
Mountains of rocks – cairn near top of Mam Carraigh
We reached the Inveroran Hotel in good time, it was really still too early for tea, but as there is nothing else between here and Kingshouse we opted to spend a few minutes on their patio. The sun had decided to come out from behind the clouds and warm us up a bit, we even got the sunblock out in anticipation!
Just past the hotel we spotted our first deer, there were a number of them in a field. Carrying on, we came to the forest lodge – which was for rent – it would have made a great art conservation studio... It was here we joined the drove road that would take us over Rannoch Moor. There is a sign on the gate helpfully pointing out we’d 10 miles to go. The wind was picking up so out came the jacket, up went the hood and out came the gloves. Looking at the map I knew we would soon be out in the open as the forest plantation on our right was providing a wind screen so I suggested a lunch stop. We clambered into a protective nook in the hill to the side of the path to eat a few bites of lunch but moved on quickly when Jacquie discovered a tick on her sock.
Walking across the moor was amazing; the sheer sense of space and you could really feel that this was where nature was the one in charge.
Looking back over Rannoch Moor
The wind kept us moving quickly (for us) and the sun made an odd appearance. The weather was not that bad and yet we were uncomfortable enough. I can easily believe it to be a most unwelcoming place when the weather is bad. We stopped at Ba Bridge for a few minutes along with a family of cyclists. This spot seemed a natural stopping point, like an oasis in a desert – the stream and the bridge drawing travellers to stop. We almost missed Ba Cottage up to the left of the path. As a ruin it emerges out of the moor but still seems to be a part of it.
We started climbing once more, and just as we crested the hill, emerged Buachaille Etive Mor. It reared up in front of the path and grew and grew as we stared downhill.
Buachaille Etive Mor towering above the path
We passed the entrance to the White Corries ski centre, and Blackrock cottage, then crossed the main road to get to the Kingshouse Hotel. This was where everyone and their dog was staying, as there is no other accommodation anywhere close to the trail. Even booking in February we could only get double rooms instead of twins as this was a long weekend. One of the solo girls who we had had dinner with the night before in Bridge of Orchy was lucky to get a room as she had mistakenly booked a Kingshouse Hotel on the internet that was located somewhere else in Scotland! They must keep rooms free for emergencies. My ground floor single room had the most fabulous view of the entrance to Glencoe (if you didn’t count the dumpsters in the foreground,) and while it might have been a bit worn around the edges, the hotel was pleasant and had a good vibe. Dinner, desert and scotch were enjoyed by all in our group. An evening stroll out in front of the hotel had us seeing more deer (apparently they feed them) and a deep pink and purple sunset that was the icing on the cake of a great day.
Buachaille Etive Mor at sunset