West Highland Way 2010
May 31st 2010 - Day 7: Kingshouse to Kinlochleven (9 miles)
The morning brought bright sunshine, blue skies and the departure of most of our group. Those who were heading home really wished they could stay and continue on. Just Jacquie and I remained to finish the last two days of the walk.
Standing on the small bridge beside the hotel, I put on some sunblock and watched a nearby deer that seemed oblivious to all the people who were out and about. I think they must be almost tame. Walking along the old military road we were treated to more splendid views of Buachaille Etive Mor as we warmed up for the day. Walking on the path beside the road we counted 67 motorbikes pass by heading into Fort William. Walkers weren’t the only ones out enjoying the weather.
The mountains that surround Glencoe and Glen Etive can create such a wild and bleak atmosphere, but this day it was warmed and made inviting by the sunshine. We turned uphill to tackle the climb out of Glencoe known as the Devil’s Staircase. After six days walking I was feeling as fit as I had in many years and for me the climb took some time... as of course I had to stop, turn, and admire the view back into Glencoe. I huffed and puffed up the zig zag path but I made it. I passed some people and was passed by others. The craziest thing was the nutters on mountain bikes, who peddled and pushed their bikes to the top of the hill, only to come flying down again, to the peril of the walkers below!
Working our way up the Devil’s Staircase
Reaching the top we were greeted with the sight of the top of Ben Nevis looming in the distance! It was a great reward for the hard work.
Ben Nevis! Its the one with the snow on it
After a short break we were on our way again as the summit was getting crowded. The path on this part of the walk I found to be quite stony and eroded, making it difficult going. As the path turned, we were presented with a very tempting view of Blackwater Reservoir sparkling in the sun. After the climb, it looked so refreshing.
Blackwater Reservoir
We descended the twisting trail that offered tantalising glimpses of Kinlochleven below, but we were, in fact, much further away than we thought. Later that night we were glad we weren’t tempted to take one of the more direct short-cuts off the path, as over dinner we met one impatient soul who tried this and ended up to his waist in bog, losing one of his boots!
The twisting path into Kinlochleven
Getting to the dappled shade of the forestry road was welcome, as the day had blossomed into a wonderful summery heat that was just really a bit too hot for walking comfortably. We stopped and sat on some roadside rocks and had some nibbles, but we didn’t stay long as the midges were also hiding in the shade! We followed the road as it twisted, turned, and seemed to go on forever, always showing us Kinlochleven and then taking us away again. Finally exiting the woods, we joined the pipes from the Blackwater Reservoir making the final descent into town. It was strange after so many days of relative wilderness to be presented with something as industrial as a power station! We finished the day where the path met the main road of the village and turned left to find our B&B. We were not very good at navigating the back roads of the village, but we eventually found Tigh na Cheo, our home for the night. Of all the places we stayed in while walking the WHW, this was the most professional affair. We arrived early enough to enjoy the last of the day’s sunshine in the front garden and then I relished the luxury of an ensuite bath to soak my weary feet, which thankfully seemed to have reached their quota of blisters.
We met up with other walkers who were by now becoming a familiar sight, at the pub, The Trailrace Inn. We also met someone new, a young guy from Copenhagen who wanted to become a priest. He was camping, but was staying at the hostel for the night because he was the one who had braved one of the short cuts on the way into town and fallen into a bog! Stories were told, wine was shared, and we all looked on in horror at the offerings on ‘Britain’s Got Talent’, which was playing on the big screen. Welcome back to civilisation...